Description - Mannington's Historic Oak water resistant laminate collection features character and depth through a reclaimed wood look that is sure to fool the eye. Looking like a real hardwood floor, Historic Oak laminate details realistic saw marks and nail holes, unlike any of our other flooring options. Finished with water resistant technology, having a wood floor has never been easier (not to mention so low maintenance!).
Material – Mannington laminate flooring is one of the most durable and environmentally friendly floors you can buy. Made from over 70% recycled content, using low-VOC inks and adhesives, Mannington laminate is FloorScore certified, ensuring good indoor air quality for your home. Mannington laminate collection has also won over two dozen awards for styling and performance.
||6-3/16" x 50-1/2"
||Variable Edge / Optic Edge
|Wear Layer Rating
||All residential, lt commercial
||Install on any level
||Floating - Click System
||70% recycled content
||72 hr spill, 25 year
||Made in USA
Recommended Uses – Historic Oak water resistant laminate has been successfully installed in basements, master bathrooms, kitchens, hallways, bedrooms, play rooms, movie rooms, and more.
Available For Order - Ships between Dec 13 - 15
Laminate planks are easy to keep clean and maintain. Maintenance of the floor typically includes the following:
- Use a damp cloth to blot up spills as soon as they happen. Never allow liquids to stand on your floor.
- For tough spots, such as oil, paint, markers, lipstick, ink, or tar, use acetone/nail polish remover on a clean white cloth, then wipe the area with a damp cloth to remove any remaining residue.
- Sweep, dust, or vacuum the floor regularly with the hard floor attachment to prevent accumulation of dirt and grit that can scratch or dull the floor finish.
- Periodically clean the floor with cleaning products made specifically for laminate floor care.
- Do not wash or wet mop the floor with soap, water, oil-soap detergent, or any other liquid cleaning material. This could cause swelling, warping, delamination, and joint-line seperation, and void the warranty.
- Do not use steel wool, abrasive cleaners, or strong ammoniated or chlorinated type cleaners.
- Do not use any type of buffing or polishing machine.
- For spots such as candle wax or chewing gum, harden the spot with ice and then gently scrape with a plastic scraper, such as a credit card. Be careful not to scratch the flooring surface. Wipe clean with a damp cloth.
- Use felt pads under chair and furniture legs to prevent scratching of the floor surface.
- Place door mats at all entrances to prevent tracked in dirt, rocks, moisture, and other debris.
For more detailed maintenance and minor repair instructions, please Click Here.
The flooring is installed as a “floating flooring”. This means that the flooring should not be fixed to the subfloor and there should be 4-6 mm distance to wall and other fixed objects. Remove any flooring strips. Measure the room accurately at a right angle to the direction of the floorboards. The floorboards in the final row should be at least 5 cm wide. If necessary, the floorboards in the first row can be cut to smaller size. Tools needed to install the flooring are a pad saw or fine toothed handsaw and an installation kit containing spacer block and an installation tool. You also need an underlayment (cork, foam or rubber) and in certain cases 0.2 (.008 in) mm plastic film for insulation against moisture.
Store the floorboards at room temperature for at least 48 hours still in their packaging, prior to commencing work. The room temperature must be at least 18°C (65°F) before and during installation. Floor areas more than 100 m² (900 sq. ft.) with dimensions greater than 10 m (30 feet) in either length or with, in transitions between two rooms and asymmetrical floor areas requires expansion gaps in the floor installation.
The flooring can be laid on top of most hard surfaces such as resilient floor coverings, wood flooring and ceramic tile. Soft subfloors such as carpets and similar must be removed. The subfloor must be even, flat, dry and variations should not exceed +/- 2 mm in 2 m (.08 in 6.6'). On wooden floors the flooring is normally laid across the existing floorboard.
All type of concrete, wooden and ceramic surfaces must be completely dry:
- For wood surfaces, moisture rate corresponding to 50% RAH
- For concrete screeds CM < 2.0%/
- For anhydride screeds CM < 0.5%
All types of concrete and ceramic subfloors require insulation against damp. This is also required for concrete floors with built-in-moisture barrier or heating and concrete floors with resilient floor covering. Use moisture barrier film with a minimum thickness of 0,2mm (.008) and allow for at least 20cm (8”) overlapping before taping. Turn the film upwards along the walls and trim when the laying of the floor is completed. Underlayment must be used over the entire installation when installing. Use underlayment paper or foam with a thickness of 3mm (.12 in).
Heated Floor Prep:
Follow the instructions for the subfloor heating systems supplied by the manufacturer/contractor. Also note the following: Turn the subfloor heating off for 2 – 3 days so that the floor is room temperature prior to laying. The surface temperature of the floor must not exceed 28°C (82°F) and the maximum output from the heating cables must not exceed 60 W/m². Make sure that the floor surface has no hot and cold areas, as this will cause tension in the floor when the heating cables are in use. Turn on the heating system after laying is completed. We recommend following start up procedure: During the first week, the heating should be set to low or medium for 2 hours per day. During the next week, set the heating to medium output, 24 hours per day. After the initial period, the heating can be regulated in a normal way. Note: That when using carpets, the surface temperature of the flooring might be higher than recommended.
- Begin laying the flooring in the left-hand corner. Place the floorboard 4-6mm from the left wall. The distance to the wall in front (4-6mm) is not important because the flooring can be pushed into place at a later stage.
- Press the end section of the next floorboard at an angle to the first one, then lay down. Complete the first row in the same manner.
- Place the final floorboard face down and the short side without the locking strip towards the wall. The distance to the wall should be 4-6mm. Mark where the floorboard is to be cut.
- Place the floorboard face down on the work surface and cut to size using a pad under 1 saw. Use a fine toothed type if you are using a hand saw. In this case, cut the floorboards face up.
- Use a cut piece of floorboard from the previous row to start the next row. This must be at least 30 cm long. If the piece is too short, start with a new board and cut in half. Always ensure that the end joints are staggered at least 30 cm.
- Place the floorboard at an angle against the floorboard in the previous row, press forward and fold down at the same time.
- Place the next floorboard at an angle against the previous installed floorboard and push it against the row in front. Put it down when the floorboards are positioned tightly.
- The distance to the walls can be adjusted when the three rows are completed. Place the flooring 4-6mm from the walls.
For printable detailed installation instructions, please Click Here.